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pondělí 17. srpna 2015

Parga


This year´s destination was to be Parga, the inland Greece, as we assumed it to be safer to avoid islands around Turkey  that were full of refugees. After we landed at the airport, we were taken by a bus to a dividing spot, where a small shattered bus arrived to take us in and another pickup behind us carried our belongings. The searing heat  of 40 degrees with incredible humidity struck us immediately as we dragged towards our hotel. It felt like a laundry room. Our delegate Jana Prouzová passed on all rather irrelevant information, which included the duty free shops at the Greek airport (which we were to encounter on our way back two weeks later!!!!)
               The first day was spent by swimming on Piso Krioneri beach, which was a way down through the entire city and at the furthermost end of the promenade. This city is very overcrowded in summer, and full of chaotic movement of motorbikes, cars and pedestrians, but also full of innocuous corn sellers and intrusive waiters grabbing your attention everytime you pass by. There is a part of old Parga with cute sloping streets enclosed by craft and souvenir shops, that leads to the very top of the hill at which one can discover many other fashionable corners, restaurants and mainly, the ruins of amazing Venetian fortress, that dominates the whole harbour. 
 










 After a short breather at our balcony (that failed to function as a calming and resting place), we will go to prowl the city and uncover the hidden landmarks. Jana told us to be careful in the bathroom, as there were several accidents including people hanging to the washbasin and pulling it down as well as the whole portions of glass shower door. As if that could ever happen to ME! We can hear many weird humming noises from the adjoining building next to our balcony. It appears to be a gym, as we can study the silhouette of a man riding a bike (or rather a man heavily leaning on the bike as if he was about to die). It´s unbelievable that someone would want to sweat even more than is humanly possible in current circumstances. The positioning of our balcony is slightly irritating, as everyone who passes down the stairs can watch all our movements.
              The next day we spent all our time on Valtos beach and paid for the pair of seats and sunshade. Our neighbour, a Finnish tourist, gave us a fascinating performance of changing her swimming gear every time she went to water. All in all, she owned four pairs of swimming suit in various colours. Some people can be exceedingly meticulous, even at the beach. I burnt the skin on my face which is rather painfull. In the evening hours, we ventured into the town but it was extremely uncomfortable as the humidity and heat combined forced you to sweat buckets of water. At the night time, we were awaken by motorbikes that pass under the main gates of our  hotel – and considering the disposition of the building – the outcome is quite obvious. All the noise tends to echo inside the tunnel- like structure of the entrance. We have to sleep with balcony doors wide open, as Sylva rejected to use the air conditioning, and therefore, adding to the list of utter madness and agony, are also bloodthirsty Greek mosquitos, that don´t buzz before they bite (and let me tell you – you don´t know you´ve been bitten until half a litre of your blood  is gone!)  In the morning came yet another blow to our system : no running water in whole Parga. In a while we´ll be taking off by boat taxi and shift ourselves to Lichnos beach, which is short distance away. We will be getting back home at around six.
             The boat ride was great fun. It took us along the cliffs in a billowy waves that splashed their salty water all around and people aboard kept laughing each time they were hit. At least the first hint of a fresh breeze since the time we have arrived! In the evening we hiked up the hill to Siraki restaurant in the most awesome and quiet part of Parga, that has some stunning views of the sea. I had Lamb exotico and Sylva had Musaka. Very nice indeed. I´m charred to the bone and everything aches me – maybe that´s why I´ve dreamt of a nasty witch that tried to kill me – and nearly kicked Sylva off the bed while asleep!
              Today we stayed at home till 1pm, had a lunch and then went to Piso Krioneri, where we rested and baked until 7pm. The wind was slightly blowing today. The programme of last evening was repeated in same order for its success. We went to Siraki again, only this time we had to go across the road to Three Plane Trees, because there were no seats left, but it mattered not – for we enjoyed the best view of the Valtos beach and far beyond – while vigorously chomping on our delicious Musakas and sipping on the great chilled Rosé wine. There is nothing as good. Musaka must be the real food of Gods! Tonight was pretty much the same as the first – we slept with earplugs to avoid the sound of hysterically noisy motorbikes that kept driving us mad until 2 am!Today we left for Valtos and spent there all day. While I swam in the sea, an older Greek guy approched me with cunning smile and strong shake of a hand, introducing himself as Hercules. I guess this Hercules was past the fighting the Nemean lion centuries ago....As he kept asking intrusive questions and slowly arranging our next mutual trip around Greece, I attempted to escape by excusing myself to swim little further into sea – but alas! – he offered to join me without hesitation and started to get warmed up already, in which moment Sylva (sensing I´m in mortal danger) got up from her comfy position on the beach and swam towards me. She is a real Rescuer! Hercules swam away like a wounded giant octopus and while we swam in the safe distance, he managed to sneak to my towel and leave there some mysterious item (judging from distance I believed he just planted a bomb into my bag). After we crawled out of the water, we noticed two cans of soft drinks with matching straws, but decided to ignore them. Hercules rested few metres away from us, but said nothing at all whatsoever – not until half an hour later, when he could resist no more and matter of factly mentioned:“this is for you my friends. We are friends, no? Drink it!“  We both muttered something unintelligible in a decent way of refusal and when Hercules dived into the waves, I gave the orders of immediate departure. We packed our belongings in a record breaking time and off we went – not looking back again. It was not that we would want to be rude, but having had the experience with Dimitris from Samos, we expected nothing good coming out of this casual encounter that might have been quite innocent in its nature – but you never know. We definitely didn´t want to spend the rest of our holidays being followed by Hercules giving us lessons on Greek mythology! 
       I burnt my face furthermore (which I thought is impossible), so now I´m putting thick layers of Greek yoghurt on my face to bring down the heat, and bag of ice cubes on my burnt head. In the evening we went down the promenade for a quick fix – hot Gyros with chips – which we graciously nibbled on at the beach, while sitting cosily in the chairs (at this hour free of charge), and then we went for a pistachio ice cream. I well deserved it after 12 rounds in the sea!
        This morning we went for a local mass into the church. One lady gave each one of us a thin lit candle, that we held during the ceremony. The priests in long golden-black tunics and tall black hats sang liturgies and the small group of local villagers watched on with all their devotion. Later on, Sylva went to the beach by herself, as I decided on sparing myself another sun treatment. I will follow her at 4pm. After two rounds of swim, we packed up and went to talk to Jana and to buy our Corfu trip. After that we went to our favourite ice cream parlor to have Mango and Raspberry sorbet. In the evening we went for dinner to Romantica tavern, as all other ones were overcrowded with hungry tourists. In this one we both had Lamb shank.
          This morning Sylva went to local markets to shop for fresh tomatoes while I cooked our pasta bolognese. Then we spent all day at Piso Krioneri and later on we dined in Rudi´s tavern, which is situated at the main square overlooking the harbour and has balconies along the second floor landing, where we sat like two divas in some opera. There I had the best beef dish I´ve ever tasted called Beef Stifado, which contained only pure beef with tomato sauce and tiny onions. Of course we didn´t  forget to spoil ourselves with red wine and coconut ice cream. I nearly forgot to mention that while swimming,  I got chatted up by young Greek guy from Athens, who was swimming next to his friend. We talked for a while and when he heard that I´m vacationing here with my friend, he descreetly swam away, never to return.  I finished reading my detective stories, so now I had to buy another book called Mum´s list. It got so hot at night, that I was forced to jump into the cold shower at 2 am! In the morning we were awaken by crude noise from bellow – the new tourists have just boarded. Must be the Romanians, according to what Jana told us – the whole Parga is occupied by such nationalities – and according to the language, I´d guess I´m right. The omnipresent backing track of motorbikes and cikadas joined soon after. What a paradise on earth!
          Yesterday we´ve got some cloudy skies and I heard a thunder from afar. Half an hour later, while on the beach, it started pouring down and the lightning in Pindus mountains slashed the skies, while all beach goers run fast to their hiding holes. We entertained ourselves in much better fashion and style – having a latté around the corner in a small coffee shop. First time in 7 days we can finally breathe – the heat dispersed and the colder air made it bearable to live. We dined at home and later on went for a mango sorbet, looking around the shops for some presents.
         Today, after the breakfast, we went to Krioneri but as it got really hot at around 2 pm, we hid inside the beach tavern and had some taramasalata ( disgusting) and aubergine dip, then went back to swim – only to stay there until 5pm, when the Pindus decided to punish us all with some more thunderbolts and lightning that crossed the sky like spears of very pissed of Zeus! I made myself my favourite melon and haloumi cheese salad for dinner and I´m getting slowly ready for tomorrow´s journey to Corfu. Outside the hell broke loose and the huricane keeps blowing our towels and other items off the clotheshorse.
       This morning we got up at 7.15 to catch some good seats on Sarris boat. The journey to Corfu was supposed to be 2,5 hours long. Among our co-travellers was quite funny bunch of individuals – four Romanian girls in swimsuits of different bright colours that nearly blinded us – one with a hairsytle I called the Wasp nest – distantly reminiscent of Amy Winehouse after an overdose – and two extremely fat Bulgarian ladies (one of which sat in the middle of the tiniest stairways and blocked it at once with her enourmous behind).
         Corfu was amazing and splendid though. The old historical city reminded me so much of Venice, due to the strong influence of Italians during the war period, I suppose. The houses with shattered windows and peeling off plasters, and casually demolished courtyards, looked like some movie set by Fellini. The port was spreading wide in the distance and the Old and New fortresses were reaching up the sky like two giant volcanoes. The houses neatly fringed the outskirts and in sort of disorganised way gave the city quite unusual feel. We had a lunch at one sideway street tavern where the waitress was about 70 years old Greek woman wearing jeans.  When we started browsing through the Menu, the thick glassed man in his dirty pants and greasy top came out from the kitchen and begun pinpointing meals from the list that he would recommend. We assumed he was the Chef. There were hundreds of meals among his repertoire, which was rather suspicious. He either had everything pre-cooked or he had to run to a different tavern to collect their meals as he alone could never manage such multiple-tasking. I seriously didn´t  want to imagine the way he cooked his dishes! There was an old lady sitting at one of the tables, some local guest – and the two women started fighting with each other like dogs. Barking mad! What a lovely and homely atmosphere indeed.




















         After leaving Corfu, there was a religious procession through the city streets with all the Greek priests carrying Icon of Madonna and holding crosses. They encircled the harbour several times in the procession of boats, before ending in the chapel of Mary. The tradition says that Parga has been built after one poor Greek guy had a vision of Mary telling him to settle and set up the town on these shores. The very next day an icon of Virgin Mary floated into the harbour and the Greek decided to take the vision seriously by building up a city.

 In the evening we went to Perivoli restaurant for a proper meal of the day. I had a swordfish and we were served by a Czech girl, which was quite a pleasure, after hearing all those unfamiliar languages of the world.
         Today I cooked a giant egg omelette for lunch. Then we went to Krioneri, where we had a rain and got bit wet. In the evening we went for a dinner – to have a large waffle with nutella and fruits. Naughty naughty me! After that we went into the streets to look for some presents. I bought some sea shells and starfish. Now there is a hurricane outside and I can see the distant lightning. This weather is rather crazy.
         Today we went to Krioneri after homemade lunch and in the evening stopped for a proper meal in Krioneri tavern around the corner from our beach. There was a Greek night today, accompanied by electronic piano music (played by Lada Szabo´s lookalike) and ukulele man. At first the choice of songs sounded more like pick from Ein Kessel Buntes rather than anything Greek.
I ordered veal stifado only to discover that Greeks probably don´t register the difference between young calf and old cow, calling a veal simply beef, as it´s the same animal after all! We ate a delicious taramasalata as a starter, and when we finished our meals, the waiter came over to ask us to dance before we pay. However, we were so stuffed and immobile at that stage, that we had to refuse his generous offer. I think we were the first tourists ever to skip the Greek trad dance for such a poor reason! I couldn´t understand how could Sylva manage to eat her dinner – she ate an ice cream and melon just before the dinner itself.
       Today we went to Krioneri at 1pm. There were huge waves in the sea. I had just a melon for lunch, and in the evening a bowl of salad. After dinner we went to shops to get some more presents. Tomorrow we´ll slowly start packing up. I didn´t  sleep much today. Way too hot and way too noisy.
     As for the last day, we visited our most favourite tavern at the top of the hill, where I had a lamb Kleftiko and Sylva ate a fresh sea fish. The sky looked as if raining anytime, but thankfully it didn´t. Our last night was the worst of all, as there was a bunch of youngsters  who woke me up at 4 am and started talking so loud that I yelled back at them to shut up. We were supposed to get up at 6am to get on the road. I put my clothes on and screaming furiously, I was ready to kill the whole lot of them. I eventually calmed down, but there is no way I will just simply ignore this – and our travel agency will have to deal with it. Sylva and I wrote them a complaint letter and we will require 20% off the price. I´m sorry to state this fact, but this was the worst Greek holidays ever so far, due to the lack of sleep (motorbikes, tourists), crowded promenades, lack of personal feel of the town, distant and overcrowded beaches, and excession of humidity and heat. The only positive point was probably the fun we had with Sylva (which comes free), the good food, and beautiful Corfu. I often think of Samos and Kokari. There is no place like it. And nothing compares to it. At least for me.






 


pátek 3. dubna 2015

Dragoon Ride

The US army´s  2nd Cavalry Regiment called the Dragoons has been travelling through Europe on their 1800 kilometres long journey, showing the united front of NATO against the Crimea and the separatists in the East of Ukrain. The soldiers with armoured vehicles rode through Latvia, Lithuania, Estonia, Poland, Czech Republic with the final stop in German Vilseck as part of the Atlantic Resolve. They have been meeting with friendly crowds counting thousands of people on each part of the way, as they had a chance to display their armoury and talk to normal people.
They were travelling to Prague on D5 with people waving at them from the bridges and showing support in every smaller town. There were 3000 soldiers prepared to settle in Latvia, and about 500 going to Vilseck. We have seen those in Prague´s Ruzyně Barracks on 31st March 2015.
The weather has been changing from bad to worse to good all day long, but it got sunny by the time I arrived. The bus transportation collapsed on Dejvická station, as there were enormous crowds of people going in the same direction. Many had to stay waiting on the stations as we were passing them by and leaving them behind. The whole area by the barracks was already swarming with people of all possible generations. The bands were already playing on stage and you could see young soldiers in the crowds, walking among us in hundreds, scattered around. They were standing by the main entrance as well, so that people had a chance to take some photographs and selfies, and as you went further into the yard, you could see the hundreds of army vehicles, heavy machinery and trucks. It was unbelievable how many people could fit into such a space. It literally took us at least an hour to get from one corner to another. There was Czech TV station present, probably interviewing some soldiers, who were more than willing to talk, and offered anyone their time. I saw loads of young guys, they could have been just 20 years old, some older. The local folks were giving them supplies of Czech beer, which they gratefully thrust into their trucks. The atmosphere was obviously very welcoming and warm, as all the Czechs were fascinated by their presence and honoured to be in the same place. Many Czechs including my Father remember the Russian invasion in 1968, when they fought in a resistance in the streets of Prague and kept hiding under burning cars. For many this has been a historic jump back with a knowledge that Russia has to remain behind our gates, never re-entering again. The presence of Americans was sort of reassuring gesture where many people proclaimed their feelings of security.

It has been a very nice and exciting day for us and let´s hope these young dudes will stay on our side should we ever need them. This time it´s all positive thinking, let´s stick to that. One of the soldiers on internet said: During my "1836" km drive home the number one thing that sticks out was the Czech veteran who was missing a leg and stood up for our convoy and saluted every last truck that drove by. (Alex Jesus González). 







Auschwitz Concentration Camp

The seven hour long journey across the border from Prague to Poland took its toll on all of us, as we disembarked in Oswiecim. Although fearing the worst in regards to weather, it turned out quite pleasantly warm and sunny. The main square brimmed over with many international  buses and the crowds were excited to see the infamous remnants of Hitler´s past. We were separated into smaller groups at our arrival and given a tour guide and set of headphones each. As we walked through the arrival gate that used to open up to millions of Jews, making them feel ´at home´ by its profane sign „Arbeit macht frei“ (work makes you free), one could feel the odd shiver down the spine as it slowly started dawning on him. The houses made of red bricks looked meticulously perfect, fitting with the German orderliness, although you could feel the underlying despondency about the whole place, once you imagined what sort of horrors must have occurred behind all those neatly built walls and fastened windows. The small village felt more like a ghost town with its dusty roads empty and hollow, intertwining with tens of other roads that housed copies of exactly the same buildings. Only their numbers were different. Block 11, Block 15, Block 9....
We walked into several brick houses being brought to many thematically diverse rooms with exhibitions of photographs with Jews marching to their death, rooms full of shocking items like heaps of shoes, suitcases, hair, prosthetics, children´s toys and other personal items. We were taken down into the prison chambers that served for various punishments. Bare walls with scarcely any light. Dampness and fear still permeating through the pores of the cold surface. We were shown a place where the recruited band of musicians used to play happy tunes for all the incomers in the hope of presenting itself as a regular working camp, that will offer new possibilities and beginnings. Only a sick mind could have constructed such a devious plan. We walked around the gallows where Rudolph Hess hung after war, but many will agree that he didn´t  deserve such an easy escape. He was the mastermind behind the means of mass murder, finding the cans with poisonous insect killer Zyklon B, which he methodically used on millions of innocent people, in order to exterminate them inside the gas chambers. That takes me to the most feared place of all; the chambers. 
The houses with low ceilings and the appearance of pigpens, with darkness swallowing every ounce of light coming through the tiny main entrance. People who entered, escaped only through the chimney. They were lied about the purpose right from the start, being given a piece of soap and told to take off their clothes in the main hall, only to be showered later. They were even told to remember the number of their hooks they hung their clothes on. How immaculate, how cunning. These Nazis, they could not have been more proud of their achievement and efficiency. As we slowly moved outside the perimeters of Auschwitz territory and headed three kilometres towards the Birkenau camp, the mood shifted rapidly, as we saw the enormous sight that had a chilling resonance. The fields behind the electric wires told the story of a real hellish nightmare. There were no more splendidly built brick houses, but shabby, desolate and gloomy  buildings looking like horse stalls that used to shelter waves of prisoners. Greeks, Polish, Czechs, Hungarians, Slovaks, French, all of them mostly Jews and some political figures as well as criminals, who used to guard over the lot. The most impressive was the pathway along the railway track that runs through the middle like a river, only leading to the centre of the camp, having nowhere else to go; the final destination. Standing on the platform, where the fates of millions had been decided upon, I imagined the multiple feet that must have touched this very ground and waddled along, exhausted by their long journey, only to come for their death certificate.

Birkenau was the strictest and most brutal  camp of all. Your chances of survival were almost none. If you were lucky to survive the initial journey where you were squeezed like a cattle without having eaten for days; if you survived the following selections directed by Dr Mengele, who by whim chose the ones fit for work and the ones who were older and sick sent off to their last march into gas chambers. If you miraculously survived even then, you probably didn´t make it through months of the hardest labour, food and water deprivation, or disease epidemics, not mentioning cold or extreme heat.
We walked the path of the doomed ones which is so often portrayed in many historical photographs – the path turning to the right – from where nobody returned alive. It was peculiar to retrace the steps of so many souls that lacked the slightest notion of what´s awaiting them at the furthest end. It felt like walking my last steps too. I imagined I´m one of them and whenever I looked behind me, I could see the train, the people remaining on the platform, the watch towers of Birkenau and the vast space beyond that belonged to the world. This was the entrapment of innocent souls inside the wired fields of death. This was the perimeter of a world that got cut off by the hands of the evil men only to snuff out the life for no good reason. I wanted so much to grab the imaginary souls and take them all back towards the gates, take them out of this hell and make it all disappear. If only time could go back. I felt incredible sadness over this loss. There is no replacement for those good, intelligent, inspiring people that could have lived and made a difference in their times. They left so many things behind; their families, their loved ones, their children, their youth, their never fulfilled dreams and hopes, their freedom. The injustice that has occurred was beating in my chest 70 years later, although I was just a silent witness now, who could barely comprehend the ferocity of it all. I tried to find some hope in there, some little speck of meaning, so that all these women, men and children wouldn´t lose their lives in vain. I imagined that maybe, maybe they were all around us now in the form of angels, trying to guard us and warn us against  the same mistakes. Perhaps their death was the only exclamation mark on our conscience, keeping us constantly alert and saying aloud – don´t let this happen again. This wasn´t injustice perpetrated on Jews. This was injustice perpetrated on all humankind.
As we passed by the most infamous gas chambers that remained standing (as the Nazis didn´t  have enough time to bring them down once the Red Army started approaching), we encircled the debris of the chambers only to reach the little remote and quiet pond. How shocking to be told its floor is still covered with tons of human ashes; the ashes that remained of the people. These were sometimes used by Nazis instead of dust, when the ground was frozen solid, so that they didn´t  slip over. I stared at the water and saw the grey layers sitting down like ashes from lava. I couldn´t fathom what kind of horror must have happened here. It was too far- fetched, too barbaric to even accept as real.  Thankfully, the sun was shining as if it apprehended our vulnerable journey back in time, and shone as if trying to take away disquiet from our hearts. The loneliness and the ghastly perception would have been much worse if it rained. We peeked inside the female building, which reminded me of a haunted farm, with all its claustrophobic narrowness, the three-floor cubicles for sleeping, where the bodies of eight people had to fit all at once, and its crumbled floors, dark corners and dampness penetrating the lungs like a heavy cloud.


If being here all by myself, I would freak out only by standing inside. Imagining that these women had to live here for several years, sleep on the cold floors quite unprovided for, without any medical help, this went beyond anyone´s wildest imagination.
Thinking of how good we live these days, how protected and sheltered we are, what food and medicine we have and the comfort we live in, we would not be able to deal with as much as they did. We would perish within a  single day. I always think of situations like being cut off from water for one day or electricity, or even not having been able to get a hot meal once a day, and I feel deeply frustrated and a sense of trepidation comes over me. These people kept hanging on threads, losing all their human dignity, starving out and dying out like flies by the thousands. The enormity of it all made them immune to their surroundings and living conditions. They got used to sleeping next to dead bodies, or bodies twitching in agony. They were so hungry they had to eat the grass or pieces of clothes. They were so thirsty they had to drink the water containing their own excrement. They were so cold they had to huddle together, clinging to their neighbours´ skeletons to warm up. Adding the fear of whatever the Nazis decided to do to them with their rifles, beatings, kickings, public punishments... they didn´t have much more to live for.
As we walked out of the barracks and came closer to the main gates, we were taken inside the huge wooden shed that could hold thousands of horses and cattle, only this one served quite a different purpose. It used to be the only communal latrines. Thousands of holes cut out in the concrete slab underneath which were the shafts for human excrement. There were stories about Jews and inhabitants of the camp, who tried to hide inside the smelly dump, only to avoid the cruel Nazis for at least a while. The Nazis wouldn´t go near the latrines; that would be way too unimaginable a torment for them to endure. They left that in the hands of commando, the criminals, who were partially favored and partially doomed to be eliminated sooner or later as well as the Jews. 
This was the last stop on our journey through human hell that once has taken a place on this very earth. A place that shouldn´t be forgotten, but left at the back of our conscience. It should be the constant reminder of what humans are capable of if the wrong person is given the power to rule the world. After all, this part of history is about all of us.

Arbeit Macht Frei - The work will set you free
Auschwitz looking deserted now 70 years later
leftover prosthetics of those who didn´t make it to the camp and were sent straight to Gas 
That´s where the band was situated (also mentioned in "Sophia´s choice")
Dr. Mengele´s experiments on children
Birkenau from the inside - this railway track had to be crossed by every single living Jew
the path towards death -millions of people walked to their deaths, unsuspecting anything
their last view while alive - believing they are going to take shower, they were slaughtered
Female barracks - they slept everywhere, squeezed together in rows
public latrines - they had only 20 seconds each to do their stuff
the beds they slept on - mass chicken house